Autumn

Autumn

Saturday, February 18, 2012

What's For Dinner

I hope. Sweet Wife has agreed to a field trip. One of my stops will be the local market. If I have time (chuckle) I shall tackle this gumbo. Give it a try...and enjoy.




Duck and Andouille Sausage Gumbo
Serves 4
2 whole duck legs (drumstick and thigh, about 1 pound total)
salt, freshly ground pepper
1/2 pound andouille sausage, cut into 1/2-inch slices
canola oil
1/4 cup all purpose flour
1 large onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
4 ribs celery, sliced (about 2 cups)
2 cups chopped bell pepper (I used a mix of red and green)
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2-1/2 cups reduced sodium chicken broth
1 cup water
1 14-1/2-ounce can diced tomatoes, with juices
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
2 bay leaves
1/2 pound fresh okra (may substitute frozen—see Kitchen Notes)
1-1/2 teaspoons filé powder (optional—see Kitchen Notes)
cooked white rice
chopped Italian parsley, for garnish (optional)
Tabasco or other hot sauce (optional)
A quick tip: Chop the onion, celery, bell pepper and garlic before starting to cook the duck. It will make things easier—it will also make your kitchen smell like heaven right away.
Season the duck legs with salt and pepper and place them skin side down in a dry, unheated Dutch oven or heavy pot. Set the heat to medium-low and brown the duck on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. If the duck doesn’t release from the pot at 5 minutes, just let it cook a minute or so more and it will. Transfer the duck to a plate and add the andouille sausage. Brown just for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally and transfer to a bowl (or the plate with the duck legs).
Make the roux. Survey the fat in the bottom of the pot. There probably won’t be more than a tablespoon or so (duck legs have much less fat than duck breasts do). Add 3 tablespoons or so of canola oil to the pot, enough to give you about 1/4 cup of fat. Raise the heat to medium and add the flour all at once. Whisk the flour into the oil to combine and continue whisking to prevent burning. My favorite tool for this is a DIREKT whisk we bought at IKEA more than five years ago. I’m not sure they still carry it, but I think they have something similar.
After 5 minutes or so, the roux will start to take on a blond hue. Continue whisking and cooking. If your roux starts to smoke, reduce the heat slightly. Eventually, the roux will turn a nice deep brown; mine took about 15 minutes to get to that point, but it can take longer.
When the roux reaches a satisfying brownness, add the onion. Toss to coat with the roux and stir frequently (you can switch to a wooden spoon or pair of wooden spatulas—I like the latter because as you add more stuff to the pot, it’s easier to mix it all together). Cook the onion for about 5 minutes, then stir in the celery, bell pepper and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, for another 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the chicken broth, water and diced tomatoes with their liquids to the pot. Add the cayenne pepper, oregano, thyme, paprika and a generous grind of black pepper and stir to combine. Return the duck legs and sausage to the pot, along with any accumulated juices. Tuck the bay leaves into the liquid and bring gumbo to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour.
Transfer the duck legs to a plate and allow them to cool enough to handle. Cover the pot and let the gumbo continue to simmer. Meanwhile rinse the okra, trim off the tops and slice into half-inch or so pieces. After 10 or 15 minutes, remove the skin from the duck legs and cut/tear the meat from the bones. It will still be pretty warm, so be careful, but don’t be a baby about it, either. Cut the meat into bite-sized chunks and add the duck and the okra to the pot.
Cover and simmer for another 45 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings. I know that 1/4 teaspoon of cayenne sounds tame, but the andouille sausage will add some heat. Add more cayenne if you like or some hot sauce. As the gumbo nears doneness, cook the rice. Remove the gumbo from the heat, discard bay leaves and stir in the filé powder, if you’re using it.
Serve the gumbo in shallow soup bowls. Top with a generous mound of rice and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Pass the hot sauce around the table for those who want more heat and a vinegary zip.

Kitchen Notes

Don’t skip the okra. Okra is a classic southern vegetable that found its way here from Africa. We love it steamed, fried or however. Some people object to its “sliminess,” but that viscous liquid cooks into the broth and helps thicken it. When shopping, avoid overly large okra, as it can be woody. If you can’t find acceptable fresh okra, frozen will do just fine.
Filé powder. This is another staple of Creole and Cajun cooking. Also known as gumbo filé, it is the powdered leaves of sassafras trees. It is used sparingly as a thickening agent and should be stirred into gumbo after it’s removed from the heat; otherwise, it can make the broth stringy. Besides thickening the broth, it adds a kind of root beer flavor. As you see, my recipe calls for all three thickening agents, roux, okra and filé powder. Feel free to omit the filé powder. 

Stephen

12 comments:

  1. Ok, I believe I must make either a gumbo or etouffee this weekend. You're an enabler, you are.

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  2. Looks delicious, Stephen. What brand of andouille sausage do you use? Andouille is hard to come by her in the PACNW (especially in smaller towns), and the couple that I've tried are so-so.

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    1. Rose, the brand doesn't matter all that much, any will do. I don't believe I've ever purchased the same brand twice, then again I'm lucky. We have so many to choose from here in the South. Just not frozen. Try the web.

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  3. Stephen, you made my belly n backbone start rubbin. lol
    When we lived in Louisiana, we ate local. Crawfish, shrimps, gumbos, jambalayas etc. I loved the gumbo I had one time that had chicken, pork, andouille, and every vegatable from the garden. When they served it over rice, they told me it was the only soup you eat with your fingers. They don't bone the chicken, or peel the crawfish and shrimp. I EEEEEEEE, c'est bon, c'est bon. The one ingredient I loved the most was the eggs they put in it just before serving. Just break an egg into a tea cup and slip it into the pot. Let is cook for about 3/4 minutes or til the yolk is all the way done. Shouldn't let it be boiling tho or it will tear up the egg.
    T

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    1. I too like the egg. Haven't used it in many years but it is good. Thank you so very much for the nice comment.

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  4. I'm going to have to get out the dutch oven, and make me some of this. I know a few guy's from hunting camp, that would flip, if I served it in camp.

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    1. The guys will love it...thanks, my friend.

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  5. I think this is going to happen very at Casa CC! Thanks.

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    1. You will not regret it...it's very good grub. Thanks, Coolchange.

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  6. Hoo-WEE char! Dat is some bonne nourriture right there! My mouth is watering : )

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    1. Craig, build a yourself a mess of it....it's so good it'll make 'ya want to slap 'yo momma for feeding you so bad all 'dem 'dare years ago...thanks, Bubba.

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